There are many great reasons to visit Copenhagen, but did you know it’s also really easy to take a daytrip to Sweden from there? We had only a long weekend in the Danish capital, but I couldn’t resist the opportunity to tick another country off my list. And our destination, the charming city of Malmö, was more than worth the trip across the sea.
The journey from Copenhagen to Malmö is all part of the experience. You can travel from the centre of Copenhagen to the centre of Malmö in just 30 minutes, and the train goes over a long bridge over the sea called Øresund Bridge. It’s cool to look out of the train window and see nothing but water for miles and miles!
Art on the water
Arriving in Malmö and exiting the station, we were drawn immediately to some sculptures beside the water. Non-Violence (also known as The Knotted Gun) was one we’d read about, but the multicoloured shapes, mirrored water fountain, and concrete circle were a surprise. These quirky artworks made a stark contrast with the grand red-brick buildings behind them. These contrasts between modern art and historic architecture are a recurring sight in Malmö, and they contribute to the city’s originality.
The Turning Torso
Next we walked to the Turning Torso, a sculptural, skyscraping office block on the edge of the city. It was a considerable walk to get there, but it was cool to see its twisted shape from every angle. The tower sits among blocks of smart, modern flats. Continue walking and you reach the edge of the city and of Sweden: you can stand on the decking here and see Øresund Bridge, and the sea you just crossed. We continued walking, following the water’s edge southwards, before eventually turning in towards the city centre.
Malmöhus Castle isn’t really what you imagine when you picture a castle. It’s nothing like Frederiksborg Castle in Denmark, which we’d visited the day before! Malmöhus Castle has undergone quite a few changes over the years, and today it looks more industrial than palatial in style. Nevertheless, the drawbridge, water-filled moat, and red cannon towers are interesting to see. We weren’t interested in seeing the museum inside, so instead we explored the park around the castle. There’s a windmill and a garden, and a lovely community cafe with outdoor seating and firepits. But we had other plans for lunch, so continued towards the centre.
Moose meatballs and an elk burger
Reaching the historic centre of the city, we went to a pub called Moosehead for a late lunch. Why did I pick this place? Because I’m a huge fan of the iconic Swedish meatballs meal at IKEA, and I wanted to try the ‘real deal’!
So I ordered the moose meatballs, while Steve had an elk burger. Both were really good! My meatballs came with tangy pickled cucumber and real lingonberries (rather than the ‘lingonberry jam’ you get at IKEA), and the creamy gravy was gorgeous.
Moosehead is located on Lilla Torg (i.e. Little Square), which is the centre of Malmö’s historic quarter. The colourful timbered houses date back to Medieval times, and are utterly charming. The historic buildings combined with the buzzy restaruant terraces, the quaint cobbles, and the many parked bicycles make the square a lovely place. We spent some time wandering the area, taking photos, and window-shopping, before jumping on the train back to Copenhagen.
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All text and photos (c) Juliet Langton, 2020. All rights reserved.